TE21 Voltage Regulator.

We have recently been touring in Spain in our TE21 in temperatures of 30C plus. On several days, after climbing mountains, we experienced a loss of charging. This appears to happen when the car gets very hot: the car was running at just over 85C during some of the climbs and the Kenlowe fan cuts in at this level. I had to back off the cut-in temprature, so that the battery was saved from discharging too much. Even so, we had a few journeys of several hours without charge getting to the Hotels. The loss af charging still happens when the Kenlowe fan doesn't operate. I had thought that it was the fan which caused the problem but clearly not. The other interesting point is that on one day, after driving on a motorway for about 15 minutes on the way back to the Hotel, charging resumed (car was back to normal running temperature). Everything was normal each morning, and if the car was left for an hour or so after the problem occurred (lunch stop). Has anyone else experienced a similar malfunction? I intend to try a new regulator in the hope that the present one is faulty.  David. Posted by DavidMJS 25/06/2014 09:45:55

David,  Can you indicate what was showing on the ammeter when the problem occurred?  Richard Posted by RichardWallach 25/06/2014 12:05:42

Hello Richard. On each occasion the charge indication was very low (ie battery well charged). It is only then obvious that there is no charging when the Kenlowe fan switches on and you get a large discharge. I found that switching on the headlights for tunnels again was balanced out until the system stopped charging. Any suggestions very gratefully received! The car has done almost 3,000 miles so far this year, so is well used. I do also have another comment, possibly relevant. When we were driving into Oviedo in very heavy traffic for a lunch stop (after a dash up the motorway), I switched the Kenlowe on manually and the charging persisted until the revs dropped when we stopped for traffic lights. Once in motion again the charging system was no longer working. It was a very very hot day and the water temperature was about 90C, althought the engine ran faultlessly throughout. When staying at Fuente De, right up in the Picos Mountains, I also noted that the charging stopped during one of our runs up the mountain to the hotel. I checked the regulator on arrival and it was VERY VERY HOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I did wonder about winding some wet towel around it to see if I could cool it down and prove my heat theory, but late afternoon tea was more inviting!  David. Posted by DavidMJS 25/06/2014 14:50:41

David  Did you check the wires from the dynamo to the control box,both connections and continuity, also worth looking at the dynamo brushes, are they worn down and can they move freely in their holders with sound connections to the external connectors and commutator, also the heat could have been doing strange things to the commutator if it is very oily.  Let us know the outcome  Peter Posted by Peter Martin 25/06/2014 22:19:53

David,  Peter's comments are very apt as there are three issues at play, namely the generator, the wiring and the regulator. On an earlier post I recommended that members obtained a set of Lucas technical manuals. They can be downloaded from: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.classic-citroen-tech.co.uk/models/tech/Lucas-Docs-4.htm">http://www.classic-citroen-tech.co.uk/m ... Docs-4.htm</a><!-- m --> David, if you are technically minded have a read of both the generator and regulator volumes. Is your regulator the RB310? Unless you have access to a good volt and ammeter set it will be difficult for you to measure the output from the generator and its later control through the regulator. That said a visual inspection as per Peter's post should help track down the problem(s). I would also suggest that you remove the cover from the regulator and look at the bobbins to see if they look &quot;cooked&quot; as well as the contact points. It is probably best to remove it from the vehicle for this.  If you do replace the regulator it will need to be set up by an auto elec. Another option is to have your regulators internals removed and replaced with an electronic unit. If this appeals have a look at: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/enter-site.php">http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.c ... r-site.php</a><!-- m -->  Please keep us posted.  Richard - Melbourne Posted by RichardWallach 26/06/2014 03:06:24

Thanks Peter and Richard for your comments. I will let everyone know how I get on. The car never really gets hot in the UK, so I probably won't be able to replicate the problem here. The car has now done 163,000 miles from new and the regulator has never been changed as far as I know. The electronic replacement sounds interesting.  Best Wishes,  David. Posted by DavidMJS 26/06/2014 07:48:47

David, from what you have written in your last post with respect to mileage, I would think that the 3 sets of contacts will be well and truly worn out. We need to remember that we are referring  to a mechanical unit that does require adjustment, although the service books make little to no mention of it. Regardless of the issues you have experienced I would have changed the regulator simply due to its age, unless of course you know its age/condition. Likewise  both the starter and generator need a watchful eye. I wouldn't be surprised if the field coils on both units haven't had their bindings replaced. By now the bindings will be totally rotten. The bearings in each should also be changed, the same goes for the sintered bushes as they need to be kept charged with oil.  Whilst the name Lucas often comes in for criticism the product, when well looked after is robust.   Richard Posted by RichardWallach 26/06/2014 11:36:58

If you are technically minded, there are various reliability and longevity improvements to the standard Lucas regulators that can be applied, as described at:  <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.worldphaco.net/uploads/SAVING_THE_LUCAS_RB1061.pdf">http://www.worldphaco.net/uploads/SAVIN ... RB1061.pdf</a><!-- m -->  I know this is not the right regulator but the principles still apply.  Good luck  Dave Posted by DaveT 27/06/2014 11:39:28

Dave,  Re your post, the internals of the regulator you mention also apply to earlier two bobbin variations. The diode addition is well worth while as it helps with voltage spikes and therefore points burn. These diodes are readily available on e-bay. That said we must be mindful of the polarity of our cars when soldering this diode in place.    Richard - Melbourne Posted by RichardWallach 27/06/2014 11:48:44

If replacing the regulator doesn't cure the problem, I would suspect a dirty commutator - as happened to me a couple of years ago. Trouble is that if your car has PAS, it's a non-trivial job to access said commutator. Posted by vaningen 01/08/2014 22:29:58