HELP PLEASE WITH ENGINE PROBLEM !

A couple of years ago I had a problem with my Alvis TE21.  At that time, I wrote to this website to ask if anyone had any idea why the car stopped running after about six or seven miles.  I was advised to fit new points.  Although I had previously fitted new coil, condenser, distributor cap and points, the new points appeared to cure the problem and the car has since covered several hundred miles.  Also, I fitted an overhaul kit to the fuel pump a couple of years ago.  However, the car has now developed a very similar fault.  After seven or eight miles, the engine will stall (usually at traffic lights !).  If left for ten or fifteen minutes, it will then restart and run normally.  The warning that the car may be about to let you down is that it has a slight misfire at low revs.  Can anybody help me please ? Posted by Brian Cutting 28/02/2013 14:20:20

Did you also change the rotor arm ? If you did not you should have ,if you did there were some dodgy reproduction ones around 2 years ago. Worth trying a new red one from CPrince or Dist Dr.. Posted by Peter Martin 28/02/2013 16:55:37

Thank you, Peter, but the rotor arm was changed at the same time as everything else.  The only things we didn't change were the plugs and plug leads, which were in good condition.  All the items which were changed were purchased from Red Triangle.  I think that I will, nevertheless, contact Chris Prince - thank you for the suggestion.  The mystery deepens !! Posted by Brian Cutting 01/03/2013 11:33:30

Hi Brian, be careful not to rule things out simply because they have been replaced. Your initial post states that the swapping the points a second time solved the issue initially.  I wonder if your "new" coil is dodgy and fails when it gets hot? Can you borrow one from somewhere else and try it? Paul. Posted by pryantcc 01/03/2013 13:17:10

Good comments from the others. Especially re. rotor arm, there have been some very poor copies in circulation.  In case you think it is ignition related, it's worth checking the centre contact / spring of the distributor cap. It's not unknown for the spring to fail, or for the carbon contact to break-up. It's a very quick check.  However, if you are getting a good spark when the engine fails, it's worth checking the fuel supply side as follows:  1) That the fuel tank is venting correctly and not preventing pump suction (e.g. is there a rush of air in to the tank when you open the filler-cap, after running the engine for a while?). 2) Check there is no possibility of air-leakage at the fuel-tank end of the fuel pipe connection. 3) That the fuel supply hose between the long rigid pipe and the fuel-pump inlet fitting has not become porous. Sometimes despite appearing OK, this hose can get pin-holed and suck air after a short while (Chris Prince has a good quality replacement hose available). 4) Check that the fuel-hose connection at the pump inlet fitting is correctly made, and not able to suck any air. 5) In case there is an in-line plastic fuel filter retro-fitted on the suction side of the fuel pump, ensure it is not cracked and sucking air. Also check for partially blocked filter (if fitted) which will prevent good fuel suction.  Hope this helps, Giles Lacey Posted by lacey giles 01/03/2013 15:05:34

Another thought,are the plug &Ht leads copper wire or carbon filled?,the latter can give intermittent hard to find continuity problems particularly between coil & distributor. Posted by Peter Martin 01/03/2013 15:44:47

Brian, Have you checked the continuity of the ignition LT wiring? Either heat or vibration may actually cause an intermittent poor connection to either the coil or distributor. Also check that there is not a short within the distributor. Posted by RichardWallach 04/03/2013 00:32:23

Very many thanks to all who responded to my cry for help with my TE21.  I have ordered a "red" rotor arm and will check all HT connections;  also will check fuel pick-up from tank  Although new, I will add the coil to the list of suspects !  Again, I am so grateful to you all for your help.  Brian Cutting. Posted by Brian Cutting 05/03/2013 12:16:40

Brian, in reading your message I was reminded of a similar incident of about a year ago. Having replaced all the electrics, coil, leads, plugs, points and condensor, I discovered that the braided wire inside the distributor had frayed and this caused an intermittent short, hence a misfire leading to a no go situation. I had previously rebuilt the fuel pump and as this did not help, replaced this with an electronic pump, to no avail. The wire I am referring to is the one that the low tension wire from the coil connects to on the side of the distributor (thence into the distributor) Although I had already done so a few weeks earlier, I also replaced the 50 year old, New old Stock condensor that I had used, with a new one, so I am not sure which of these resolved the problem -- but one of them did and I now have trouble free motoring.  Phil Posted by pdadd 05/03/2013 21:40:45

Many thanks to all those Members who so kindly gave me help with my TE21 which was continually cutting out after ten or twelve miles.  I took all your advice on board but initially went for the simplest option which was to fit a new red rotor arm obtained from Chris Prince and, this morning, the car ran without fault for thirty odd miles.  It looks very much as if this has solved the problem.....  Brian Cutting. Posted by Brian Cutting 07/04/2013 12:59:06