Hi This went into Submit and didn't come out so here it is a second time. Apologies for not replying sooner, and thanks for all the advice,this helped give us 3 months of great motoring.most appreciated 3,000 miles in fact, fuel consumption at 23mpg to start with, dropping to 21.4 at finish of AGM run around both Islands of NZ - yes Phil you were right. Too late for Rydlyme treatment thanks but contact details for NZ 3L owners please. Engine now has a noticeable loss of power and it is not possible to tune the SU carbs with 3 and 4 cylinders well down on compression. So it is head off time to tackle the overheating (only twice on trip) and loss of water problem without removing the engine from chassis. Keen to try the modified head gasket as described in 1992 New Year Bulletin by a Mr Nield and Geoff Dawber regarding overheating problems. Copy can be supplied on request. Are these wonderful gentlemen still around? Referring to this article - how to reduce the head to block transfer holes and by how much? Gasket I have already has the transfer holes cut. Will solve this when we have the head off, aim to limit water flow by reducing flow by one-third? Removing as much rust sludge as possible through frost plus holes in block as recommended is our first step then blowing as much rust out with compressed air when lock is dried out. Then re-condition the head, crack test first and skim if required, seats re-ground or replaced - we expect at least 2-4 seats/valves to be burnt. Adding 20cc engine oil through the spark plus holes on compression test improved the compressions by just 10psi on 3 and 4 cylinders. Check everything and rework/replace as required i.e. starter motor, distributor etc. - not forgetting the leak in the heater box. If there is anything not obvious we should do while in the thick of it, Gentlemen, please advise. Also have a slipping out of 2nd and occasionally 3rd gear problem on the BN7 gear box - read that it should be removed through car and not from underneath. Is this correct? Still looking for the early Owners Manual. Brakes were temporarily cured by fitting new pads but expect the slow pedal return to come back when they are worn. Servo is not original Peter Australian PBR 260550 fitted and works well. Regards John Posted by john speight 27/06/2013 02:19:50
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