TD21 S1 Clutch Replacement

Hello Subject to my arm surgery healing nicely I am about to embark on replacing my worsening slipping clutch.  I would be most grateful for any input whatsoever with regards to sequence, process, tip & tricks, do`s & don`ts, rear main oil seal replacement, timing chain replacement, parts sourcing, how much room do I need under, inside & around the car, type of transmission trolly/jack, how many hands, parts lists, part numbers, diagrams, moral support, jokes, gold bars, etc.etc. Your advice would not only make interesting reading for others but would be invaluable to me. Many thanks. Kevin  ps Hopefully the old clutch will last until after 15th July.  I have been invited to show my Alvis and run the Test Hill at the Supercar Sunday Display at Brooklands Museum and also Mecedes Benz World Test Track.  EEEK! Posted by Dig 04/07/2012 14:41:33

Motor trader service sheet no. 343 is a good starting point plus a Spare Parts Catalogue for exploded drawings,( the S11 +TE book covers the S1). If the timing chain does not have a joining link you may have to remove the drive pinion from the crankshaft,the big nut was originally done up by the strongest apprentice with a 4' extension bar.(quote R Simmons),so can be tightThe valve timing guage is useful but not foolproof,most of the ref books have a drg. of it.RT should have the bits you need .Good Luck Posted by Peter Martin 05/07/2012 10:09:31

I would suggest you do not attemp to remove that crankshaft pinion. Better to remove the one from the camshaft which is relatively easy, or, if this does not work, cut the old chain. Best of luck, Jack Clover. Posted by jackclover 07/07/2012 05:06:25

Just had another memory recall! many years ago my TD clutch started slipping, for some reason the hydraulics were not releasing it entirely, though they should be self adjusting, I think. The answer was to remove the arm from the end of the clutch withdrawal shaft and rotate it back one spline, thirty years later that car still has the same clutch! Worth checking before taking things to bits. Jack Clover Posted by jackclover 07/07/2012 05:17:10

Hello Kevin, I cannot quite understand all this talk about timing chains, unless you are converting from auto to manual, there is no reason to touch it.  Changing a clutch is technically easy but physically hard work. Briefy:   First disconnect the battery. The seats and transmission tunnel come out first, disconnect the propshaft and speedo cable, undo the bellhousing bolts and gearbox mounting, place a jack under the rear of the sump on a nice piece of wood, turn the engine so there are two fan blades uppermost so as to reduce the chance of one blade going into the radiator, disconnect the throttle linkage and jack up the engine just enough to pull the gearbox up into the car. Replace a couple of bolts in the back plate to sump holes to prevent much oil dribbling out (you should get away without having to drain the sump if you don't hang about).  The clutch is then exposed.  If there is evidence of oil leaking from the rear main oil seal, it should be replaced. the flywheel and rear back plate has to come off to do that which means draining the oil.  Unless there is damage or excessive wear on the crankshaft pinion where the seal sits, there is no reason to touch it or the timing gear. (I have complete clutch kits at £140 plus vat, exchange as well as rear oil seal and gearbox mountings in stock)  Replacing the clutch is straightforward but not totally foolproof, The splines sometimes develop a ridge, so it is wise to check that the driven plate slides easily on the gearbox shaft at this stage.  The driven plate must be centralised under the cover plate as this is tightened or the gearbox will not slide into place. The book tells us to use a clutch aligning tool or an old gearbox input shaft. I have succesfully done this by eye though.  Also make sure the new release bearing swivels on the shaft when fitted into the bellhousing. I have known them be tight and cause disengagement problems later.  As the gearbox is slid back into place, (not forgetting to remove the bolts temporarily holding the backplate to the sump) rotating the propshaft flange with it in gear helps to line up the splines. Sometimes they drop in first time easily but more often they put up a bit of a fight and the gearbox has to be wriggled a bit. If it doesn't want to go, recheck that the driven plate is central. Reconnect everything and do a short road test, a few yards will do, just to make sure everything is OK before putting the transmission tunnel and carpets back. I am usually at the end of the phone if you need a bit of urgent advice Chris Prince 01939 270662. Allow the best part of two days for the job. Posted by chris 09/07/2012 08:13:59

Thanks all for the advice.  Still not recovered enough to replace the clutch, hopefully Chris, in September I will be in contact for the parts.  Should I remove the old one before ordering a replacement from you and is it advisable to replace the rear mount at the same time?  Many thanks again. Kevin Posted by Dig 23/07/2012 15:43:35