Electric fuel pump for 3 litre

About 5 years ago I fitted a Lucas electric fuel pump (Part no. FDB787) to my TE21. I chose this particular type as it has an isolated body and can therefore be fitted to either positive or negative earth cars. It can also work as either a pusher (fitted near the tank) or as a puller (fitted near the engine). I have it fitted under the front driver's side wing next to the chassis, so that it is both protected and kept reasonably cool.  I have been happy with the pump's performance, but have just had to replace prematurely perished (poor quality!) flexible fuel hoses, and in doing so have snapped off one of the plastic nozzles on the pump. These nozzles are not an integral part of the pump, as they are designed to be rotated to best suit a particular application. However, I have been told by both the supplier (Panks of Norwich) and Lucas that the nozzles are not available seperately. I am obviously reluctant to replace this pump with another of the same type, and find myself in a similar situation in a few years time.  I am tempted by a Facet pump, but I understand that they have to be fitted within about a foot of the fuel tank for optimum performance. Has anyone experience of fitting one of these to a 3 litre? If so which part no. to get the correct fuel flow? Does a fuel regulator have to be fitted? Where is the best position to fit one?  Alternatively, what other pumps have members used which can be fitted at the front of the vehicle? Posted by greg124 21/10/2013 16:48:33

Clive,  What was wrong with the original mechanical pump set up? My TA21 works just fine with the original AC pump and feed pipes. Posted by RichardWallach 22/10/2013 03:20:59

Richard,  even after rebuilding the original AC pump, I got sick of having to hand prime it each time I wanted to use the car. I know that several 3-litre owners have gone the route of installing a second (electric) pump just for priming, and kept the AC mechanical pump for running. However, I chose to do away with the mechanical pump altogether. Posted by greg124 22/10/2013 15:04:53

Provided there are no upstream leaks, usually the starting carb and its link to  no2, the carbs should retain enough fuel to restart the car after 2/3 weeks on the second if not first turn of the key. Run your hand under the carbs after a run when things have cooled down, you may be unpleasantly surprised at how damp and petrol smelling everthing is , fix the leak(s) and your overall mpg should improve . I can get over 24 on my TE on a decent run .My only issue with the AC  pump with its nice glass bowl where you can see the rust and other muck, is my inability to stop the oil weep from the priming lever pivot,despite copious silicon, and the retaining nuts that tend to slacken and are awkward to tighten up,perhaps I need 2 new Symonds nuts. Posted by Peter Martin 22/10/2013 17:16:05

Thanks Peter, there is a small weep from where the starting carb joins the rear carb, despite having rebuilt everything. Is it possible to replace the red fibre washers with something a bit better? Posted by greg124 25/10/2013 10:42:22

I came up with a solution over the weekend.  [url=http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/clive124/media/Fuelpumpfitting_zps1996b1c8.jpg.html:28brcei6][img:28brcei6]http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t441/clive124/Fuelpumpfitting_zps1996b1c8.jpg[/img:28brcei6][/url:28brcei6]  These angled fuel unions are designed to fit Facet fuel pumps, and cost about £2.50. They have an American national pipe thread (NTPF) and the i/d is fractionally larger than the original plastic part, so shouldn't cause any restriction. Posted by greg124 28/10/2013 17:00:47

The dreaded parts book shows a steel washer and impliies 3 fibre washers on the larger thermo carb end and a steel washer and 2 fibre on the smaller end of the link piece. I guess you could try a little mastic/gasket cement on the washer faces and check the banjoes for tighteness, be careful as the the smaller one is prone to stripping the base out of the float chamber, Posted by Peter Martin 30/10/2013 10:38:15