As far as I know in all Alvis cars of this period (Silver Eagle, Firebird, Speed models, etc.)the sump is fitted using only CLEAN joint faces and a thin coating of Hylomar or the like. If you really have a problem I think you can get away with a paper gasket no more than 0.005" thick. A 0.010" paper gasket can be used under the sump strainer. I have found the best method is to identify all the stripped studs - by trying to tighten them, strip the threads of any suspect ones if you will, mark the dodgy ones and remove all the studs. With a fine file carefully clean off any burrs where the studs fit in the crankcase to get a true surface. Remove all gasket and jointing material with a gasket scraper from both crankcase and sump faces. Identify all suspect studs and install Heli-coils. Check that the studs screw back in easily and straight. I just "nip" the studs up, that way they will not be inclined to jam in the threads. Be aware that there may already be Heli-coils in the crankcase! 5/16" B.S.F. heli-coils should be obtainable as a kit with the correct taps and insertion tools via an industrial fastener supplier at about £40.for a set with 10 coils. Do not go mad with the Hylomar, apply it to one surface and smooth it down with your finger. Just so long as you can just see the colour. When the sump is refitted only a very small amount should squeeze out of the joint as it is tightened. The sump is best tightened a little at a time like a head gasket. Remember anything that squeezes to the outside will also squeeze to the inside with the potential to break off and block oilways. I do not recommend the use of silicon jointing - nasty modern stuff! If this does not work carry a large drip tray, talk about character, and sweep up any dropped studs before driving away! Phil Robertson 3861 Wa Posted by Silver Eagle 17/08/2012 20:20:36