Timing marks

Peter the marks on my damper are not exactly clear as stated though there is something there. 1 mark that is slightly longer than the others and 2 or three shorter marks either side of it. I am assuming the longer mark is TDC and the others are at 5 degree increments. Thus to do a static set at 10 BTDC (on Number 1) the required point is 2 marks in advance of the longer mark? Just checking because Alvis might have been weird and used the longer mark to mark the 10 BTDC point. Has anyone ever had a problem getting the distributor to rotate once the clamp etc is really loosened off. Mine does not want to budge and I am loath to hit it too hard as the casting is fairly thin. Does setting the timing static at 10 BTDC usually get things ok? Iused to work with an indicator lamp and saw setting as achieved as the lamp just extinguished as you rotate the distributor clockwise (towards retarded) am I right or do you rotate anti clockwise towards advance until the light extinguishes? Thanks as always. Posted by haysx0 23/04/2018 19:26:30

Steve,  It is probably worth removing the distributor and with fine wet and dry paper clean the outside housing of the distributor and the inside of the aluminium housing. Over time the distributor and housing can tend to bind together. When done lightly lubricate both faces. Note the position of the rotor as this will allow for easy reassembly. The unit should then move quite freely with the clamp loosened. Remember not to turn the engine over with the distributor removed.  Re timing: Fit the test lamp to the distributor low tension terminal and earth and switch on the ignition. Turn the engine until the correct timing marks are in line. Loosen the distributor clamp and if the test bulb is alight turn the distributor in the direction of the rotor arm's rotation until it goes out. Then move it slowly against the rotor arm's rotation until the light just comes on. Reclamp the distributor.  Hope this helps.  Richard Melbourne Posted by RichardWallach 23/04/2018 22:12:42

Steve, Your timing methodology sounds fine, 10* before TDC should be fine tho I think TD's are officially only 5*, might pink a bit and a definite kick on the starting handle .Set the micro adjuster at its mid point .My TE damper has 7 lines ie 5* steps marked from 20* before to 10* after with a more distinct line at TDC which is also stamped TDC. Try cleaning the damper face with emery paper it may bring up the markings.The car handbook is pretty helpful in terms of how to do static timing also it claims you can see the flywheel markings via a removable cover in the toeboard, but not too easy to turn the engine from there.Cannot stress too strongly the bad consequences of turning the engine over with the dizzy removed unless you also remove the loose spur gear.  Peter Posted by Peter Martin 24/04/2018 11:35:45

Yes this helps but I still need clarity about the timing marks on the damper. Peter Is the long mark TDC or 10 BTDC? Posted by haysx0 24/04/2018 20:37:50

Sorry Peter I hit reply and wrote before seeing your response (needed to re-load the page but didn't). I seem to have just 4 timing marks 1 long and three short. They are on the periphery of the damper not the face and no TDC stamping. They are not super clear. It's definitely a TD so I will try 5 BTDC and just hope I can get it started with everything new. Don't worry I am not about to lift the Dizzy out and certainly would not rotate the engine with it out. I assume however the dizzy shaft is keyed to the drive gear by an off centre key same as on the Dizzy on my A series Austin Healey Sprite so you can only get it to engage if in the right rotation or is it a simple key that you can get 180 degrees out. Is there another "problem" like the drive gear disengaging? Posted by haysx0 24/04/2018 20:49:24

Steve,  It is possible for the drive to disengage. You would be able to tell as the rotor button will spin around by hand. The driven end is an offset dog so it easy to replace the distributor. Do make sure that the distributor fastening collar against the top of the distributor shaft in order for the distributor to seat fully. You will need to ensure that it can rotate in order to be able to set the timing before fine tuning with the micrometer.   Richard Posted by RichardWallach 24/04/2018 22:33:43

Steve I think Richard has covered almost     everything,and if you can turn the rotor arm freely then the drive is disengaged and if you are unlucky the the camshaft/spur gear  teeth are probably stripped.Very bad.I have never heard of a   drive disengaging assuming the dizzy is correctly located.   I confirm the timing marks are on the periphery not the face of the damper To free the dizzy you could try a soft tourniquet on the body and simultaneously tap the block with a copper/lead hammer,gentle heating of the block might also help free things.  Peter Posted by Peter Martin 25/04/2018 08:45:16

Thanks to everyone for the help. New distributor cap new leads and new plug caps and lo and behold it started with ease and runs like a dream. Not sure it needed everything as the cap looks ok and also I probably did not need the new coil but its' not expensive  and not easy to get off and on so it stays and the one I took off is now a spare. See everyone in the lakes weekend after the next. Posted by haysx0 27/04/2018 14:30:18

Steve,  Were the old leads you replaced of the modern silicone type or original copper wire?    Richard Posted by RichardWallach 27/04/2018 21:04:07